It’s been a while since I’ve had whips available on my IN STOCK whips page. I just listed two bullwhips and a riding crop.
If you need a whip right away visit:
A few months ago my friend and sideshow historian James Taylor had seen a mini bullwhip that I had made and wanted one for his collection. I finally had some time to make him one. This mini bullwhip construction had a core, plaited belly, bolster then overlay.
One of the challenges with making this type of whip is that you have to really thin down the leather, so it’s very fragile if you aren’t careful about going around the scars on the leather when you are cutting the lace.
The overlay of this whip is 12 plait.
Making these mini whips which are about a foot long are a lot of work, but fun to make and you can get little cracks out of them!
I specialize in making kangaroo leather bullwhips. However I have made several Paracord bullwhips in the past. I was contacted by a friend of mine who wanted a whip, but is vegan and they wanted a paracord whip. I had a roll of paracord that was just about enough for a bullwhip, so I agreed to make one to get the roll of nylon out of my closet.
Unfortunately I didn’t take many pictures of it in progress, here’s the whip without the heel knot:
And here’s the finished whip (before the final roll):
If you are looking for a paracord bullwhip, feel free to contact me and we can chat about making you one!
Here’s an email I recently got:
When you use cowhide to make an Aussie Bullwhip do you use 4oz for your bellies and/or the overlay?
I believe that I once read that you use 2-3oz. ‘kip’ (?) for the bolsters when crafting one in kangaroo leather..?
Basically the answer about what I’m using for bellies in all whips is pretty simple. I use the thinnest veg tanned cow leather I can find. Typically that’s going to be 2-3 ounce leather. However sometimes due to what’s available I have to use a thicker leather and run it through my leather splitter to thin it down.
As for overlays, I would use kangaroo and not kip. You can use kip, but it’s not something I’d do, unless I had some kip I was trying to get rid of. Also I think most Australian whip makers would tell you that for an Aussie Bullwhip, kangaroo for the overlay is a must!
I cut out all of the overlays for the six bullwhips. Each overlay is 12 plait, so that’s 72 strands!
I then did the all of the stretching and paring of the strands!
By the end of this my hands really hurt, and I still need to plait the six bullwhips!
In continuing with my production line style of making these six bullwhips, I put the inner bolsters on and then started to attach the outer bellies:
Here’s the outer bellies attached:
The next step will be plaiting the outer bellies.
My current project is working on a dozen whips! Six of them will be six foot 12 plait bullwhips and the other six will be four foot stockwhips. The most labor intensive will be the bullwhips, so I’m working on them first.
For me, when making a lot of whips that are the same, the easiest way to save time is to do the same layer of all of them at the same time. This is “production line” style, where you do only one task at a time. This way your brain isn’t constantly shifting gears. For example, I cut out all of the bellies at the same time:
Then I went through and attached all of the inner bellies at the same time. Once they were all attached I plaited all six of them.
This way works great, but when I’m doing the overlays will be really rough on my hands.
I had this bullwhip come in for a new fall:
After chatting with the owner, he decided he wanted an Australian style fall put on it.
Here’s the whip with it’s new fall:
Here’s a close pic of it:
I took it outside and gave it a few cracks!
It’s on its way back to its owner.
Here’s an 8 foot Beginner’s Bullwhip that I finished yesterday
I just listed it for sale on my IN STOCK whip page
All of the plaiting and knot tying is finished on this 8 foot Indiana Jones Style Bullwhip!
Up next is to shellac it and roll it a bit more.