Currently I’m working on an Indiana Jones style bullwhip built with David Morgan’s construction. You can find out more about David’s method in his book Whips and Whip Making.
There are some differences between how they make bullwhips at David Morgan and how I normally make mine. For example the lead load is one of the first thing they do at David Morgan and it’s one of the last things that I do. Neither way is right or wrong, just how we do it.
Here’s the bullwhip with both bellies finished:
And here’s the bullwhip as it is currently:
It still need to have the wrist loop added:
The knots need to be tied and a few finishing touches. So far I’m happy with how this has turned out! Next up I’ll be finishing up a 16 plait riding crop that I started a while ago.
Yesterday I cut out a batch of falls and got them soaking in grease:
I also finished plaiting two Deluxe Beginners Bullwhips and one short snake whips.
I made the bullwhips with the same knots and general look as David Morgan’s iconic bullwhip that was used by Indiana Jones. The two main differences is that these are 4 plait cow instead of 12 plait kangaroo and these have four plait wrist loops instead of six plait wrist loops.
I still need to roll these bullwhips…and they are available on my IN STOCK WHIPS page.
The short snake whip isn’t for sale, it’s for a friend of mine.
Yesterday in addition to finishing up plaiting projects that I had started a while ago, I also added a wrist loop to the snake whip that I made a couple of days ago. It’s owner had emailed me and asked if I could add it.
Here’s the whip before the wrist loop was added:
So I had to take off the turkshead and braid a wrist loop:
Then I had to attach the wrist loop and redo the turks head:
When adding this wrist loop I couldn’t have reused the turkshead’s lace for the same knot again because once they are tied and trimmed I’d have a very difficult time retying it and due to the added bulk (not much, but enough) of the wrist loop the lace probably wouldn’t fit. So I cut the lace down the middle to make two thin strands, then folded each in the middle and flat braided them to make the wrist loop. Finally I cut a new piece of lace for the turkshead knot.
Today I’ve got a busy performing schedule so I probably wont’ get any plaiting in.
Here’s a few pictures of the riding crop after I tied two new knots and put a new wrist loop on it:
I haven’t re-dyed it yet…I’m not sure if I will. I think the parts were the old dye have worn off give it character!
Right now I’m working on a 9 foot 12 plait kangaroo bullwhip. I’m making this bullwhip with the Indiana Jones (David Morgan) look.
I’m using a 75 dm kangaroo hide that I got from Paul Nolan:
To use up some of the “ears” at the top of the hide, I cut the 6 plait wrist loop from up there:
Then I greased up the hide and cut out the two bellies and did the strand prep:
the handle on this bullwhip is going to have some taper to it. Here’s the inner belly’s yoke that’s cover the handle and you can see that the taper has begun.
Right now I have bothe bellies plaited (but no pictures). I’m hoping to have the final bolster cut out and attached sometime today. I don’t expect to get any work cutting out the overlay in today.
Lately I’ve been putting more thought into my wrist loops and because of that they are looking much better. I think there are a couple of things that are overlooked by beginners when they make wrist loops:
- Thickness of the strands: On a 6 plait wrist loop that’s normally used on an Indy Bullwhip you need the strands to be fairly thin.
- Length of the wristloop: I’ve notice that a lot of beginners wristloops aren’t very big. That would make it hard for someone with a thick hand to use it.
Until recently I’ve been cutting my wristloops freehand, but since making my strands thinner I switched over to using one of David Morgan’s lace cutters.
You can get them from David Morgan, they work great for cutting the fine strand of a wrist loop.
I’m finishing up a KotCS bullwhip today that isn’t spoken for (let me know if you are interested in ordering this one). The wrist loop is finished so all that is left is to roll the whip, attach the wrist loop, tie the knots and shellac it!
Here’s the whip before rolling:
Lately I’ve seen some a lot of bullwhip maker make Indy Bullwhips that have horrible wrist loops. By horrible I mean that they are too short. A wrist loop on a bullwhip should be long enough for someone with a “ham hand” to put their hand through the loop. And on a KotCS sytle whip they should be able to tie it in a knot like Delongis does and it looks like the whip that Harrison Ford has in the new movie also has the wrist loop tied.
Here’s the wrist loop after it was plaited:
Recently I did a bullwhip wrist loop with out paring and one where I did both flesh corners (how I normally do it) and was amazed at the difference! The one without any beveling came out much chunkier looking and the pared one was much smoother. It made something that David Morgan told me a long time ago really make sense. He said that he doesn’t always pare the belts he makes because it give them more texture.
I’m back from my trip to Oregon. On the way there I got stuck in traffic when the freeway was closed due to a big car accident. While I was sitting in traffic I managed to cut out and plait a 6 plait natural tan wrist loop. I had a bit of a hide in my car and one of my blades, so it worked out well.
Tonight I’m going to finish up the last foot of plaiting on a 6 foot KotCS bullwhip (hopefully) and tomorrow I’ll finish cutting out the overlay for an 8 foot Morgan Indy Style bullwhip.
also I’m experimenting with two different ways to shape falls. I just took them out of the “goo” so we’ll see how they turn out.
I’m also making a bullwhip for retired magician (Stan Kramien) that used to have a HUGE touring magic show. He saw my bullwhip act over the weekend. He used to do a bullwhip act, so I’m making him a 4 foot. He can’t stand for too long, so it needs to be something he can use sitting.