I had this whip come in for a repair. The keepers on the handle and the lash were basically gone. What was left of the keeper on the lash was the loop from an inner layer of the whip. The keeper on the handle was about to fall off as well.
I wanted to keep what was left of the keepers/loops and build over them. This in theory will provide a bit more strength than if I had cut them off.
For the handle, I took off the knot:
Then removed the string:
I then put a new keeper onto where the string was. I bound it really tight with sinew and put a new knot on it. . I did a similar procedure for the lash:
And the end result turned out looking pretty nice!
I gave it a crack, and it works great!
I want to give a shout out to Paul Nolan for helping me get some kangaroo that matched the whip!
This morning I’m packing up a 4 foot stock whip and shipping it out to its new owner. This whip is made from kangaroo and has a 12 plait handle and 12 plait lash.
This is a whip I made a long time ago for fun and didn’t list it for sale until a few weeks ago. I’m cleaning up and listing whips that I’ve made for fun over the years, and never used or listed for sale. Keep an eye out on my IN STOCK whips page for some sweet deals!
I was cleaning out my closet and found a bunch of whips that I made a long time ago and for whatever reason never listed them for sale. I’ll be listing them for sale on my IN STOCK whips page as I have time. Here’ the first one, it’s a 4 foot stock whip.
This whip has a 12 plait handle and lash. I just gave it a few cracks and it’s got a nice crack to it. Since I had forgotten I had this whip, I’m offering an amazing deal on this whip. Check it out on my IN STOCK whips page!
Here’s a email I got and I figured the answers would be relevant to some others:
“I’ve made a couple whips before and they turned out alright. But I’ve been asked to make an Aussie stock whip for a girl from Australia. Any tips or advice? And what is your take on saddle soap as a conditioner and plaiting agent? Thank you for any advice you might have.”
Let’s start out with a general thought about making stock whips:
A basic stock whip is a lot easier to make than a bullwhip.
While I don’t know the length you are going for, there’s a great pattern for making a stock whip in David Morgan’s book Whips and Whip Making. If you basically follow that and adjust it based on the length of the whip you should do fine.
Next up is using saddle soap. I personally do not use it, the main reason is I can’t stand the smell. Every brand I’ve tried stinks! There are other valid reasons to not use saddle soap as plaiting soap and as conditioner.
First for plaiting, you really can’t beat using soap and lard. You can find the recipe for making this in David Morgan’s book Braiding Fine Leather (I think it’s also in Whips and Whip Making). Soap and lard is much cheaper than buying saddle soap, and it’s usually much easier to buy, as you can get everything you need from the grocery store.
Now as for using saddle soap as a conditioner. Yes, it has some stuff in it that’s good for leather, but it also has stuff in it that’s bad for leather. Products like Pecard’s Leather Dressing and Fiebing’s Aussie Conditioner are generally accepted as better for kangaroo. The nice thing about products like Pecard’s is that it’s ready to go, you don’t need to add water. You can throw a small tub of it in your whip bag and you can add conditioner to that fall you didn’t realize was dried out when you are at the park cracking your whips.