Choose Your Own Bullwhip and Emails…

Choose Your Own Bullwhip and Emails…

My ebay experiment where I make a bullwhip to the spec’s of the current highest bidder is still going on..  For me one of the biggest challenges is making this whip over 7-10 days.  Normally I can do an 8 foot 12 plait bullwhip in about 1 1/2 to 2 days.

I just updated the ebay listing with the bullwhip in its current state of construction.  You can view the auction at:

While this auction is going on I’m going to answer some emails that have come in:

Question:  How can i get those bullwhips? I’m from philippines.

Answer:   Simply order whatever you want from my online bullwhip store and choose the International Shipping option.  You can  view the online catalog at:


Question:  I have a question when it a good time to call you?

Answer:  Anytime!  I have an irregular schedule so no time is better than any other.  If I don’t answer leave a message.


Question: I just bought a leather rounder on Ebay and I was hoping you could tell me how I should use it?

Answer:  Basically you pull leather through it.  I’ll try over the next couple of days to make a little video of how to use a leather rounder and post it here on my blog.


Question:  Regarding the spring steel, I tied on a core to one of the spring steel rods the other day, and it was quite difficult to get it secure! What I’ll do next time is use a file or something similar to rough the steel up…the file thing would be much quicker. You’ve mentioned before gluing the core on, do you just use leather cement like you can get at Tandy or something else?

Answer:  When securing the core to a smooth steel handle foundation I currently use artificial sinew only.  I pull it very tight!  I’ve heard I have a fairly unique way that I pull my string tight and I talk about this briefly on the DVD that comes with my Stock Whip Kit.  However my string pulling method isn’t necessary, just pull very tight!

You can try using leather cement and I used to do that and occasionally still do.

As for roughing up the steel, I would advise against it.  Inside no matter how tightly you bind it there will slight bits of movement inside the whip and the roughed up steel will wear away at the leather. Over time the amount sanded off the leather could then lead to what was once tightly bound to be loosely bound do to the sanded down material.  Is this a realistic concern?  Depends.  If you intend a whip to  be used for 3 year or so then no, it’s not a big deal.  However if you want to think ahead to a whip that might be around and still in use for 30 years then it is.


4 thoughts on “Choose Your Own Bullwhip and Emails…

  1. I’ll try just binding it next time. My thought of roughing it was sort of how you get the 3/8″ galvanized spikes, and they are fairly rough. I of course grind the tip smooth, but the rest I

    leave fairly rough unless there’s a really bad spot, because it’s easier to tie the leather on because there’s more friction.

    I didn’t plan on making the spring steel really rough, just a bit here and there to give the leather

    something to grip onto.

    Thanks for answering my question! I really appreciate it :)

    1. Jeremy,

      I’d say that galvanized spikes have texture (for the most part) which would hard to duplicate with a file on a steel rod.

      You could try something like dipping the rod in Plastidip and that would give you a good foundation to build off. I’ve never tried that before, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.


  2. Jeremy, You could try making the core and wear leather one piece. That would give you more area to secure the leather onto. I use chrome steel rods myself. I grind down one end and taper it for the core.


  3. I don’t use wear leather, I just grind the end of the handle smooth and have never have a

    problem. Even on my first leather whip, I didn’t grind the end too well, and didn’t use any leather,

    and the whip is really loose and I haven’t had any problems, and the thing has been used

    regularly for nearly a year now.

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